If you want to get the idea how it feels to live rural life in a extremely remote corner of the world and watch in action another trademark of Argentina - Gauchos (or maybe even try to be one for a day), to enjoy amazingly beautiful scenery and of course to taste the local speciality - Patagonian roasted lamb, you have to visit a Patagonian Estancia (Spanish word for Ranch).
Inspired by the book of famous Argentinian chef Francis Mallmann - Seven Fires, and some childhood stories about Gauchos I was dying to have a glimpse on their way of life (even if it is fabricated for tourists in our days). This trip - definitely one of the highlights of our Argentinian "expedition" - was amazing and I would recommend it to anyone.
There are several estancias offering daily visits in area of El Calafate. Since all the estancias are located in beautiful locations (there is no such a thing as a bad view in this part of the world), I chose the Estancia Nibepo Aike because of the description of its activities and because this ranch was still conserving some authenticity (they breed Hereford cattle).
Established by Croatian family more than a century ago, this ranch still stays within the original family.
Our exploit started right after we got picked up from the hotel. Nothing brings you closer to a Gaucho life stile as 1 hour of shaking in the tiny bus on the dirt road (if you can call that relatively flat area covered with big stones - road). Heavy shaking was compensated by stunning, jaw dropping, National Geographic Documentary worth views.
Upon arrival we were greeted with hot beverages (unfortunately we didn't get chance to try real Mate which is usually shared between friends and close people, so not suitable for tourists) as it was freezing cold outside (this is very normal in this part of the world, where two wind drafts: pacific and atlantic meet; that and the fact that it was early spring). We had also tried some fried pastries similar to what my grandmother used to make in opposite side of the world - simple flatbreads which were delicious.
We were promised Patagonian Asado, which is roasted lamb for lunch and we could have a peek at preparation process in the kitchen. Just like Gauchos did it for centuries - all very simple: fire, a cross (Cruz or Estaca), Patagonian lamb and salmuera (salted water), nothing else needed to elevate this excellent quality meat to another level. The Asado was just perfect, nothing compares to a true Patagonian lamb, I don't know if its the grass which it feeds from, or the views sheep enjoy, but it was so tender and juicy - nothing to what I have tasted before.
After the greeting, guests were offered to chose from two activities: hike or horseback riding. Since my previous horseback riding experience could be summed up as 5 horrific minutes on Donkeys back while my sadistic parents were taking picture of me (I was 6 years old), I was confident I am going to chose a hike. And then I saw Gauchos strolling on their horses like nothing in this life can be easier... all this fresh air, breathtaking views, the mystic herbal tea we were given, suddenly made me believe I can actually ride a horse and even pretend (to myself) I am a real Argentinian Gaucho. Five minutes later, of course, I was cursing myself for such an irresponsible decision while trying to climb on a big, scary horse who clearly didn't look forward to have me on it's back.
I strongly believe that the best way to fight the fears one has is to embrace them. I not only survived this voyage in one piece (I admit I did imagine myself on the floor with broken back few times) I also experienced something really special. It is hard to describe with words the immense, full of drama, greatness of Patagonian nature in front of you while your horse slowly (or sometime vigorously) carries you towards the horizon.
After the astonishing ride we were invited to the barn for sheep shearing old way demonstration. Although this doesn't look like something that sheep would enjoy, this procedure is necessary. If sheep are not sheared timely they won't be able to feed their babies and to see well - which can even lead to starvation in winter.
In spite of being active farm Nibepo Aike is still touristic place so the sheep and horses are well trained and used to demonstrations. Some guest even compared them to circus animals: sheep knew when and where to run, when to sit quietly.
Our day ended up with mouthwatering, juicy roasted Patagonian lamb.
I had a chance to be a Gaucho for a day and I made the most of it. Who can say it is not brave to go for a horseback riding without actually learning how to do it? I still blame the Patagonian air...